Dankalia is a region that stretches from the Red Sea coast, through Eritrea and into eastern Ethiopia (see Figure 1). It is part of the Great Rift Valley system (also known as the East African Rift Valley). At its heart lies the Danakil Depression, a volcanic desert most of which is 120 m below sea level. The irony of this name is not lost on those who experience its bleak conditions.
The environment of Dankalia is tremendously hostile. Relentless searing heat burns the skin and lungs (the temperature has been known to exceed 60ºC), lakes ‘deceive’ travellers by offering salt water not fresh, and vicious sandstorms abrade the skin. The famous explorer Wilfred Thesiger once remarked
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